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Fashion Fetishization: How Modelling Agencies Exploit Vulnerable Refugees

As a fashion enthusiast, the SS24 fashion season was one to remember, with haute couture gracefully parading up and down the runway. As a Black woman, it was even more noteworthy, given the surge of Black supermodels and Anok Yai's iconic closing of the Mugler show. Sociologically, this signals, as a society, we have moved beyond the Eurocentric perception of beauty that traditional beauty is equated with the White woman.


Of course, as with anything, you can never take anything at face value, and this is no different. While it may appear to be a significant milestone for black women, I perceive it as a fetishization of Black women, particularly South Sudanese Women. It comes as no surprise that when the fashion industry finds its ideal type, they tend to obsesses and overdo it. We saw a similar trend with the emergence of 'Brazilian bombshell' and 'Russian doll' supermodels in the early 2000s; however, it is essential to note that these models were 'ethically sourced,' as they were properly scouted


What sets apart this new ethnic fetish within the fashion industry is the sourcing of these models from refugee camps. Individuals seeking refuge from a war-torn Sudan and Central/East African countries, and the false promise of a better life in the 'Western world' as highly paid models, hoping to replicate the success of their predecessors. These individuals are whisked away to fashion capitals like Milan and Paris, yet find themselves inadequately compensated and eventually returned to the very refugee camps they initially fled, frequently burdened with debt.

If you thought the situation couldn't get worse, these scouts enforce crazy specific criteria’s; such as, if a model appears 'too malnourished' or too 'refugee-like,' they are rejected as if they are participating in some form of a dystopian America's Next Top Model audition.


While inclusion is ofcourse a positive thing, when at the expense of fetishization and exploitation, the Black community wants no part. This issue has surpassed the fashion world and has evolved into a flagrant violation of human rights.

I implore you to spread the word to your friends and family, inform Amnesty International, and share this blog to bring attention to this atrocity and bring justice to the models.


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